Madeira – The island of eternal spring

Madeira

The island of eternal spring?

Located in the Atlantic Ocean, about 600 km off the coast of Morocco and 1,000 km from Lisbon, Madeira is a Portuguese island that has been captivating travellers from around the globe for years. Often referred to as the “Island of Eternal Spring”, it is renowned for its mild climate, lush vegetation, and spectacular landscapes. But does it truly live up to this title? I decided to find out for myself.

Madeira, part of Portugal’s autonomous region, is the largest island in an archipelago that also includes the smaller Porto Santo and the uninhabited Desertas and Selvagens islands. The entire region spans an area of approximately 801 km², with Madeira itself covering about 740 km². The island, shaped like an irregular rectangle, was formed by volcanic activity, resulting in stunning landscapes of steep cliffs, rocky shores, and picturesque valleys.

With a population of approximately 260,000 residents, nearly half of whom live in the capital city of Funchal, Madeira is a vibrant and welcoming place. Funchal, located on the southern coast, is known for its bustling atmosphere and breathtaking views. Portuguese is the official language, but due to the high number of tourists, English is widely spoken, especially in hotels, restaurants, and tourist attractions.

One of Madeira’s most significant assets is undoubtedly its climate. It boasts mild temperatures throughout the year, ranging from an average of 16°C in winter to 25°C in summer, earning its reputation as the “Island of Eternal Spring.” Despite its small size, the island features microclimates – the northern regions tend to be wetter and more humid, while the southern areas are generally warmer and sunnier.

After spending over a week on this island, I can wholeheartedly say that it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. I fell in love instantly – with the lush, vibrant greenery that surrounds you at every turn and the breathtaking terrain that looks like a scene from a movie. Madeira feels like a real-life Jurassic Park – wild, awe-inspiring, and almost primordial. Seriously, all it takes is a glance around to feel like you’ve stepped onto a film set. Why do I think so? Keep reading, and you’ll discover what makes this island so extraordinary.

Airport and first impressions – Madeira welcomes you

Let’s begin with the first step on this magical island – the airport. Madeira’s Cristiano Ronaldo Airport (yes, the famous Portuguese footballer was born here) is renowned as one of the most challenging airports in the world for pilots. Its unique location between the ocean and mountains, with a runway supported by columns, demands special qualifications and precision from pilots for landing. The airport itself, although small, is pleasant and easy to navigate, making the arrival and baggage collection process smooth and stress-free.

Right at the airport, you’ll find car rental options and I must admit, renting a car is the best decision you can make when planning your trip around Madeira. Surprisingly, rental prices are very reasonable (around €30 per day), and having a car gives you the freedom to explore this small but incredibly diverse island at your own pace. Madeira’s roads are in excellent condition – smooth asphalt, clear signage, and a modern infrastructure. The island is famous for its tunnels carved through the mountains, which not only reduce travel time but also offer thrilling experiences. In some places, exiting a dark tunnel reveals breathtaking views of cliffs and the ocean, as if you’ve been transported to another world.

I couldn’t help but repeatedly say “WOW!” while driving. Every turn, valley, and viewpoint along the route is an opportunity to stop and admire the scenery. The best part is that you can drive across the entire island in just about 1.5 hours – that is, if you manage to resist the temptation to stop at every viewpoint, which is nearly impossible.

Porto Moniz – A gem of the northern coast

My first destination was Porto Moniz, a charming town located in the northwest corner of Madeira. This is one of those places that seem tailor-made for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle and immerse themselves in nature. Upon arriving, I was immediately struck by how beautifully the town blends into the surrounding landscape. Green hills and steep cliffs descending into the ocean create a stunning backdrop.

Natural volcanic swimming pools in Porto Moniz, Madeira.

The main attraction in Porto Moniz is the natural volcanic pools – “Piscinas Naturais de Porto Moniz.” These pools are a true wonder of nature, formed from solidified lava that created natural basins filled with crystal-clear seawater. What’s more, the water is naturally heated by the sun, making swimming here a unique and relaxing experience. Floating in the volcanic pools, surrounded by rugged lava rocks and overlooking the ocean, is simply unforgettable.

For photography enthusiasts, a visit to Miradouro dos Ilhéus da Ribeira da Janela is a must. This viewpoint offers one of the most spectacular vistas of the coastline, with striking rock formations rising from the ocean and waves crashing against them in an endless rhythm. It’s the perfect spot to capture the beauty of Madeira in photographs or simply to pause and take in the moment.

Porto Moniz isn’t just about pools and viewpoints – it’s also a place where you can experience the authentic charm of Madeira. Wandering through the town’s streets, you’ll see quaint white houses with red roofs that contrast beautifully with the surrounding greenery. The town also boasts several delightful restaurants serving local specialties, from fresh seafood to Madeira’s famous espada (scabbardfish).

A visit to the local shops is also worthwhile, where you can find handmade wicker items, local wines, and passionfruit preserves – a fruit that’s everywhere on Madeira and tastes absolutely divine. This was only the first leg of my journey across this extraordinary island, and I already knew Madeira would leave a lasting impression on me. But believe me, this was just the beginning!

Sunset at Miradouro do Ponta da Ladeira

One of my next stops was Miradouro do Ponta da Ladeira, a breathtaking viewpoint for catching the sunset. Imagine the sun slowly dipping into the ocean, painting the sky in shades of orange, pink, and purple, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and the endless Atlantic. This view was so mesmerising that it was hard to leave. It’s one of those places you must visit – not just for the photos but for the moments of harmony with nature.

Sunset over the Atlantic Ocean as seen from Madeira’s coastline.

The Westernmost Point – Miradouro do Farol da Ponta do Pargo

Another highlight of my trip was Miradouro do Farol da Ponta do Pargo, home to the westernmost lighthouse on Madeira. This spot is special not only because of its geographical significance but also because of the breathtaking views it offers. The landscape of cliffs and the Atlantic stretching endlessly before you is awe-inspiring, especially with the sound of waves crashing against the rocks. While the lighthouse itself is modest, it exudes charm and provides a perfect place to pause and take in the serenity and vastness of the surroundings. Sunsets here are particularly magical.

The charming Paul do Mar

I have a soft spot for small, less touristy towns that capture the most authentic vibes of a place, and Paul do Mar is definitely one of them. This quaint village, nestled between cliffs and the ocean, feels like a place where time has stood still. Walking through its narrow streets, you can truly sense the rhythm of local life, see colourful fishing boats in the harbour, and enjoy local delicacies in cosy eateries. It’s an idyllic spot for a moment of peace and quiet. I think next time, I’ll stay here a little longer!

The charming Paul do Mar in Madeira.

Seixal – Black sand beaches and waterfalls

East of Porto Moniz lies Seixal, a charming town renowned for its unique volcanic black sand beaches. The contrast between the jet-black sand and the turquoise ocean waters creates a stunning visual effect. The Praia do Porto do Seixal beach looks like something out of a postcard – an ideal spot for relaxation and soaking up the wild beauty of nature. You’ll often find surfers and water sports enthusiasts here, enjoying the waves.

Seixal is also home to picturesque waterfalls, such as Cascata do Véu da Noiva (Bride’s Veil Waterfall). Watching the cascading water seemingly tumble directly into the ocean is one of the most beautiful sights on Madeira’s northern coast. Wandering through the area reveals hidden paths leading through verdant forests and terraced fields, it’s a place that charms every visitor.

Fanal Forestry Station – The magical forest at the edge of the world

One of the most extraordinary places in Madeira that left me utterly captivated was the Fanal Forestry Station, the heart of an ancient laurel forest that has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These forests, known as Laurissilva, are unique ecosystems that have survived since prehistoric times. Found in only a handful of locations worldwide, Madeira’s laurel forests are among the best-preserved and most expansive examples of this rare habitat.

Ancient Laurissilva forest in Madeira, a UNESCO World Heritage sit.

Laurissilva, or laurel forest, is a lush and humid woodland that thrives in a subtropical climate. Characterised by towering laurel trees, some of which reach impressive heights in Fanal, the forest feels alive with its rich greenery. The trees are often cloaked in moss, and their twisted, irregular shapes give the forest an almost otherworldly, mystical character. The frequent mist that envelops the forest only enhances the sensation of stepping into a magical realm. Walking through this forest, I truly felt as though I were on the set of a fantasy film – a place so beautiful it almost seems unreal. Remarkably, I was fortunate enough to visit Fanal twice, both times under stunning weather conditions.

Exploring Fanal is not just an encounter with unique natural beauty, but also a journey through time. The laurel trees found here are living relics of an era when similar forests covered vast areas of Europe, North Africa, and the Mediterranean basin. Today, they survive only in Madeira, the Azores, the Canary Islands, and small regions of Morocco.

What makes Fanal so special?

This place not only captivates with its beauty but also offers remarkable biodiversity. The forest is home to a variety of plants and animals, many of which are endemic, meaning they cannot be found anywhere else in the world. As you walk through Fanal, you can admire not only the monumental laurel trees but also an array of ferns, mosses, lichens, and flowering plants that create stunning compositions of colour and texture. The forest is also a haven for birdwatchers, with rare species such as the Madeira laurel pigeon and the Madeira firecrest serenading visitors from the treetops.

One of the most distinctive elements of Fanal is the ever-present mist that often cloaks the trees and paths. This mist not only adds to the forest’s mystical charm but also plays a crucial role in its ecosystem. It provides much-needed moisture for the plants, keeping the forest lush and vibrant throughout the year.

Fanal is not just a place to admire from afar, it invites exploration. A network of hiking trails offers a variety of routes, from short strolls to more challenging treks. Each path reveals something unique – picturesque views of valleys, streams winding through the trees, or hidden corners that look like scenes from a painting. It’s well worth spending some extra time here, perhaps sitting beneath one of the ancient trees and simply soaking in the atmosphere. The surrounding area is also a paradise for hikers. Numerous trails wind through the rolling terrain, offering breathtaking views of green valleys and dramatic cliffs. It’s a place where you can easily spend an entire day, discovering new spots and enjoying the tranquillity of nature. For me, Fanal is the essence of Madeira – wild, primal, and absolutely enchanting.

The northwestern part of Madeira is the perfect destination for those seeking a connection with nature, tranquillity, and breathtaking views. It’s here that you can truly feel the spirit of the island – wild, untouched, yet welcoming and hospitable. If you’re planning a trip to Madeira, make sure to add these places to your itinerary. I guarantee that every day spent in this part of the island will be unforgettable!

The following days – Madeira’s capital and unforgettable peaks

After spending several days in the western part of Madeira, I decided to move to its heart – the island’s capital, Funchal. However, the journey to the city was not without its detours, as Madeira is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. One such place is Paul da Serra, the largest plateau in Madeira, which offers a completely different landscape compared to the rest of the island. This area, reminiscent of Scottish moors, is perfect for a short break, with its breathtaking views and serene atmosphere. The region also boasts numerous viewpoints, such as Miradouro do Rabacal, which serves as the starting point for many popular hiking trails that follow the levadas, Madeira’s traditional irrigation channels.

Funchal – A capital full of life

Funchal is a city that should undoubtedly be on your list of places to visit. Not only is it the island’s capital, but it’s also a true cultural and culinary hub of Madeira. In Funchal, I stayed at The Cliff Bay Hotel, which left a lasting impression on me from the moment I arrived. Perched right above the ocean, with views of the harbour and city, the hotel offers top-notch comfort. Its classic interior design and elegantly furnished rooms make it the perfect place to relax. The crowning jewel of the hotel is the Michelin-starred Il Gallo d’Oro restaurant, where you can savour dishes inspired by local flavours. The hotel also features two pools – an outdoor one overlooking the ocean and an indoor pool, making it ideal for both hot and cooler days.

Funchal itself is captivating. The city harmoniously blends historical architecture with modern amenities, creating a unique atmosphere. Strolling through the old town’s streets, you can admire the colourful facades of buildings, visit traditional markets like Mercado dos Lavradores, and sample local delicacies, including poncha, a traditional drink made with rum, honey, and lemon.

Monte Palace – Madeira’s most beautiful garden

One of Funchal’s top attractions that you absolutely must see is the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. This place left a huge impression on me, it’s undoubtedly one of the most stunning botanical gardens I’ve ever visited. Covering an area of 70,000 square metres, the garden is a paradise for nature lovers. Walking along its picturesque paths, you can marvel at exotic plants from around the world, from towering bamboo trees to lush green ferns and vibrant orchids. Highlights include beautiful koi ponds and impressive waterfalls that add a unique charm to the setting.

Monte Palace is more than just a garden – it’s also a place rich in history and art. There’s a museum housing a collection of African art and a vast collection of ceramic tiles from various eras and cultures. An added bonus is the breathtaking view of Funchal that you get from the highest points of the garden. If you’re short on time, I recommend choosing Monte Palace over the Madeira Botanical Garden, which, in my opinion, doesn’t quite match the diversity and allure of Monte Palace.

Cable cars and toboggan rides

A visit to Monte Palace is also an opportunity to enjoy one of Madeira’s more unique attractions – the cable car ride. The gondola journey from Funchal to Monte is not only a convenient way to reach the garden but also offers incredible views of the city, ocean, and surrounding hills. It’s a serene and enjoyable ride, making for a great introduction to further exploration.

After visiting the garden, don’t miss the chance to try another unique experience, the traditional toboggan ride down the steep streets of Monte. These wooden sledges, guided by two handlers dressed in white outfits and straw hats, are an iconic symbol of Madeira. It’s an unusual but thrilling way to descend from Monte to the lower parts of the city.

Conquering Madeira’s highest peaks – Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo

No trip to Madeira would be complete without exploring the island’s highest peaks. My first destination was Pico do Arieiro, which is stunning in its own right. The journey to the summit is pure joy – winding mountain roads that pass through diverse landscapes make the drive as enjoyable as the destination. At the top, I was greeted by breathtaking views, a sea of clouds seemingly dancing between the peaks and Madeira’s dramatic mountain scenery.

Panoramic view from Pico do Arieiro, one of Madeira’s highest peaks.

From Pico do Arieiro, a trail leads to Pico Ruivo, the island’s highest peak (1,862 metres above sea level). This challenging but immensely rewarding hike takes you through rugged terrain with unforgettable views at every turn. It’s best to start early in the morning to avoid crowds and witness the sunrise over the island. Watching the first light of day break over the mountains is a truly magical moment.

Conclusion – is Madeira worth visiting?

Madeira is an island that has it all – lush greenery, breathtaking landscapes, beautiful hotels, and unique attractions. It’s a place that offers both relaxation in nature and active exploration, with countless opportunities for discovery. After my visit, I can confidently say that Madeira is one of the most beautiful islands I’ve ever seen. I can’t wait to return – who knows, maybe next time I’ll create a complete guide to this magical island? If you’re considering a trip to Madeira, don’t hesitate, this is a place you need to see with your own eyes.